Page 1 of 1
skimboard design tips
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 11:58 am
by adamrod
So, after riding a skimboard in baja, I'm going to try and build one. I've got a decent amount of experience doing my own glass work on my surfboard, and I have access to some sweet carbon-fiber/kevlar weave, so all I need now is a bit of foam and a design.
I was going to go ahead and get a block of foam and carve it into a reasonable shape, but does anyone have any suggestions? I'm assuming I don't need a stringer in a skimboard right?
I could try to simply mimic an existing cabal or nobile skimboard, or I could try something different.
Specifically, it seems that most skimboards are convex or flat bottomed, but would it make sense to make a kite-specific skimboard with a concave bottom? I'm also thinking of making it a twintip design so I don't have to gybe.
well, let me know your thoughts!
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 1:00 pm
by S.I. Rider
as far as the rocker goes, i would leave it pretty flat. that is part of the reason a skimboard works so well for light wind. i twin tip shape might be kinda cool. to shape the board, get some 3/4 inch divinicell and just round the top edge with a large round over router bit. there isn't really any shaping if you look at a production skim, it's just rounded over. as long as you don't try to put fins and footstraps on it you should be fine.
later,
rob
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 1:11 pm
by windhorny
Adamrod
If you are good with autocad or another CAD program, I can very accurately cut your profile for you on my cnc router table. Perhaps this takes the fun out of it for you but you will be guaranteed a symetrical profile and can rout logos in the foam so when you glass you get embossed images-something I am doing to my boards. Also, what you are doing is pretty simple but the trick using 3/4" divinycell for that will be making a rocker table that carefully boats up the tip without breaking it under the pressure of the vacuum. Only other way i see possible is to use a block of foam thick enough to get the whole curve from a solid. And since it will be tapered, it can get pretty fragile. Divinycell is rediculously strong, yet it still will snap on you if you push it. The guy to ask is Mr. LMG.
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 7:20 pm
by Greg
That was a nice intro Yuri, thank you!
After Yuri routs your blank and graphics:
I'd recommend using a simi heavy mixed glass layup for a skimmer. The added weight will make your board cut, track and chatter less. Using a hybride cloth like 5.6 oz Carbon/Kevlar with 4 oz S-Glass layer above and below the hybride will make for a durable, stiff and solid bottom layup. Wrape the rails from the bottom up and over the top with about an inch of overlap. A trick I learned from Jimmy Lewis he called a poor-mans vacuum, was to use 2-3mm plastic film to wrape the rails and work out the bubbles on the bottom. After laying up the bottom and working out the bubbles flip the blank and tape the rails nice and tight for clean edges without sanding. After a simi-cure from an over-nighter under a heat blanket, I'd recommend using about the same layup schedule to finish off the top only add a layer of peel-ply and breather cloth to get a really tight/strong deck. Leaving the peel plys impression as your top finish surf wax will stick like glue.
Have fun!!!
L.M.G.
Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 9:52 pm
by adamrod
Great! sounds like this is going to be interesting! I'm pretty sure the carbon kevlar I have is pretty heavy stuff, but I'll definitely still put the 4 oz glass layer below, and maybe just leave the hybrid on top.
one more question: any suggestion on places to get divinycell around here? It's pretty expensive in large sheets. I was also thinking I might go for balsa if the foam is too expensive (balsa seems easier to do rocker as well)