Have you ever?
Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 12:47 am
Have you ever........
Have you ever had the jones so bad deep down in your soul???
You know when you truly need some of that good stuff to fill up your stoke reservior??
It comes in different flavors, depending on your preferences - fast kiting with your bros, riding outside the gate, sweet Thule butter, Green clean 3d water, riding close to home - but it hurts just the same......you know when the need is so bad it almost hurts???
You can't focus very well, and sometimes get agitated....
When the heat is on, it only makes the urge feel more severe and urgent....
talking about it does not help....looking at the forecast does not help....talking with your bros, kind of helps, but mostely just makes you jones that much more......
All that heat and so little wind......so little sleep as my home up on the hill at Oakland has no AC and the temp stayed brutal.......the stoke has not been fed, sleep has not been there - Jared hates the heat....on top of that, I have no TT to play with, just my directional wave board.....
That is what I had as the week started. Great big need to feed.....
I had a great time over the weekend playing under the gate and getting cooled off in San Francisco. What a sweet city. Great hang with the North crew. Fun scene at Crissy - and did I mention cool?? yes, my son loved it, my woman was mellow and happy, I even had to wear a hoodie - all is good in the world. But still, the need has not been fed and the need gets more severe.....
The week started with more heat and work......During the brutal heat, I just had to feed the need. One day after work, I Made it to a special place where the air was cool, the breeze was steady and the water was magical. Have not kited there for some time. Cold. Deep. 3d water. Fast. Alive. Pumping.......
Just the drive to get the sesh started to adrenaline flowing.....traffic seemed to melt away, the heart was racing as if I just ran up some stairs....music sounded awfully good....oh yes, the brain was starting to fire off and produce those sweet chemicals we love and jones for....and yes, it's all organic..........the car thermometer read 68 degrees, too funny......you ever hear the joke about this one: do you know what 68 is? ****Don't read if you are easily offended***** you do me and I owe you one.
Even though it's still warm, putting on a wetsuit has never been this quick...laying out lines was smooth and mellow, no sweat/frenzy....pumping up the kite took only a few seconds vs. the hours it takes sometimes. Self launch as no one is around....ready to be..... -how can this be? where is everyone???? it looks so sick.......frothing barrells........
Stepping onto my board I glide into heaven over the first of many fast green rooms which passes by me with a roar....then another.....before I get to the outside, quick jibe and smack that fat heaving lip....so much energy....the spray from my fins hits my face and covers my entire body.....the wave roars it's approval as I fly back towards the beach.......
Fast smoking jibe on the inside glassy water, and the Pellicans line up for a better of view of this new intruder to the usually quite beach.....they stare in quite approval - "oh yes, he is just feeding the need, not going to eat us, we can't eat him, moving too much in the impact zone"......
Repeat this for about 1.5 hours until 2 friends finally show up....knowing smiles exchanged......Shakas flashed in the late afternoon sun.....Big grins....fill er' up!!!!
The water is getting more smooth since it's just blowing 12m, and the swells are large. The face of some of the bigger ones are getting glassy.....the rights are firing....the lefts are barrelling........
The wind is lined up right to gor for getting a ride in the green room, with kite lines towing you to safety......trying to get the nerve to go for it....man, it's kind of big, If I blow it, could get heavy.........oh, come on you chicken shit, when else are you going to do it.....just go for it.......
Here comes a perfect set......first one is always a bit bumpy.....second one is usually smaller since water is all sucked out by #1 and #3, at least on this day it was......#3 looks clean and big.....line up.......slow down......get close to the wall.....slow down....kite low, not too low.....keep it cool, don't freak out....keep speed up......here we go....lip overhead......hell yes, I'm in........barrell closing, loop kite.......exit with the monster breathing down your neck.....can't see exit....oh yes, I'm out.....holly crap, just rode my first barrelll.....
too bad my bros are on the outside lining up for a set......
Wow what a rush.....the need is fed....all is good......makes you feel stoked to be alive....stoked to have made the call to go to the beach.....stoked that you woke up and were able to breath.....
The jones has been addressed....for now.........
Get some, Z.
"Theres a sea bird cryin and theres a ghost wind blowing
And its calling you, to that misty swirling sea.
Till the chains of your dreams are broken,
No place in this world you can be."
Have you ever had the jones so bad deep down in your soul???
You know when you truly need some of that good stuff to fill up your stoke reservior??
It comes in different flavors, depending on your preferences - fast kiting with your bros, riding outside the gate, sweet Thule butter, Green clean 3d water, riding close to home - but it hurts just the same......you know when the need is so bad it almost hurts???
You can't focus very well, and sometimes get agitated....
When the heat is on, it only makes the urge feel more severe and urgent....
talking about it does not help....looking at the forecast does not help....talking with your bros, kind of helps, but mostely just makes you jones that much more......
All that heat and so little wind......so little sleep as my home up on the hill at Oakland has no AC and the temp stayed brutal.......the stoke has not been fed, sleep has not been there - Jared hates the heat....on top of that, I have no TT to play with, just my directional wave board.....
That is what I had as the week started. Great big need to feed.....
I had a great time over the weekend playing under the gate and getting cooled off in San Francisco. What a sweet city. Great hang with the North crew. Fun scene at Crissy - and did I mention cool?? yes, my son loved it, my woman was mellow and happy, I even had to wear a hoodie - all is good in the world. But still, the need has not been fed and the need gets more severe.....
The week started with more heat and work......During the brutal heat, I just had to feed the need. One day after work, I Made it to a special place where the air was cool, the breeze was steady and the water was magical. Have not kited there for some time. Cold. Deep. 3d water. Fast. Alive. Pumping.......
Just the drive to get the sesh started to adrenaline flowing.....traffic seemed to melt away, the heart was racing as if I just ran up some stairs....music sounded awfully good....oh yes, the brain was starting to fire off and produce those sweet chemicals we love and jones for....and yes, it's all organic..........the car thermometer read 68 degrees, too funny......you ever hear the joke about this one: do you know what 68 is? ****Don't read if you are easily offended***** you do me and I owe you one.
Even though it's still warm, putting on a wetsuit has never been this quick...laying out lines was smooth and mellow, no sweat/frenzy....pumping up the kite took only a few seconds vs. the hours it takes sometimes. Self launch as no one is around....ready to be..... -how can this be? where is everyone???? it looks so sick.......frothing barrells........
Stepping onto my board I glide into heaven over the first of many fast green rooms which passes by me with a roar....then another.....before I get to the outside, quick jibe and smack that fat heaving lip....so much energy....the spray from my fins hits my face and covers my entire body.....the wave roars it's approval as I fly back towards the beach.......
Fast smoking jibe on the inside glassy water, and the Pellicans line up for a better of view of this new intruder to the usually quite beach.....they stare in quite approval - "oh yes, he is just feeding the need, not going to eat us, we can't eat him, moving too much in the impact zone"......
Repeat this for about 1.5 hours until 2 friends finally show up....knowing smiles exchanged......Shakas flashed in the late afternoon sun.....Big grins....fill er' up!!!!
The water is getting more smooth since it's just blowing 12m, and the swells are large. The face of some of the bigger ones are getting glassy.....the rights are firing....the lefts are barrelling........
The wind is lined up right to gor for getting a ride in the green room, with kite lines towing you to safety......trying to get the nerve to go for it....man, it's kind of big, If I blow it, could get heavy.........oh, come on you chicken shit, when else are you going to do it.....just go for it.......
Here comes a perfect set......first one is always a bit bumpy.....second one is usually smaller since water is all sucked out by #1 and #3, at least on this day it was......#3 looks clean and big.....line up.......slow down......get close to the wall.....slow down....kite low, not too low.....keep it cool, don't freak out....keep speed up......here we go....lip overhead......hell yes, I'm in........barrell closing, loop kite.......exit with the monster breathing down your neck.....can't see exit....oh yes, I'm out.....holly crap, just rode my first barrelll.....
too bad my bros are on the outside lining up for a set......
Wow what a rush.....the need is fed....all is good......makes you feel stoked to be alive....stoked to have made the call to go to the beach.....stoked that you woke up and were able to breath.....
The jones has been addressed....for now.........
Get some, Z.
"Theres a sea bird cryin and theres a ghost wind blowing
And its calling you, to that misty swirling sea.
Till the chains of your dreams are broken,
No place in this world you can be."