Bladder Leaks

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onda
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Bladder Leaks

Post by onda » Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:01 am

Just wondering how much bladder leak is right for a used kite?

I bought a unsed kite, and after flying it for a couple hours (2) when I came back in, the LE definately less air than when I started. Not enough to compromise the flying, but enough to notice.


Is this normal, or should a kite stay leak free forever? Should I return the kite?

Thanks

Onda

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dewey
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Post by dewey » Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:05 am

Just fix the leak. It's not hard, and if you don't know how it's a good time to learn. Used kites come with possibility of leaks. It's not to big of a deal.
Dewey

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sflinux
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Post by sflinux » Mon Aug 15, 2005 2:47 pm

You should really have no change in pressure after 45 min in your bladders. I have noticed that my leading edge bladder gets a little softer when it falls into cold water. I believe this is due to the cooling of the air inside of the bladder (PV = nRT) and is noticeable on my 21M kite.
To test if you have a leak, pump up your kite and come back 45min - 1 h later and test its firmness. If it feels softer, than you have a leak.
If you do have a leak, check your leading edge for obvious cuts. If you can narrow down the probable side of the leak, you may not have to take the tube completely out.
While trying to find the leak I've tried: soapy water, submerging in a bath tub, submerging in a full size plastic trash can. My favorite to date is the trash can, can find really small leaks this way. Soapy water works well for large leaks.
To fix the leak, my preferred method depends on how big the leak is. If the leak is pin size, you can use the glue (like model glue, has toluene as a solvent which dissolves polyurethane to melt it together). I like to reinforce the glue with a patch (like the patch for bicycle tubes, patch tape available from boardsports). I never use tape alone, it will continue to leak. Glue works best.
If the leak is bigger, I prefer to use a clothes iron to melt and form a seam. Works really well, start off cool and slowly raise the temp of the iron. I fold a piece of paper in half and put the iron on top of this so the bladder doesn't stick to the iron.
The key is to tie a piece of string onto your bladder before you pull it out. You can use your kite lines. When you pull the bladder back in, make sure it is nice and dry. Fold it up like an accordian. And lay your kite out flat so the tube won't do any folds or twists. I've tried adding powder to the bladder before reinsertion but don't believe it is necessary as long as everything is dry (powder could be food for anything that wants to grow inside your kite).
-bric

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Post by Guest » Mon Aug 15, 2005 4:23 pm

When I was learning and crashing kites hard, air would leak out, probably around the valve during impact. Make sure your valves are closed tightly, and don't drop the kite!

Leave it inflated overnight to make sure it's not leaking.

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pipedragon
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Post by pipedragon » Mon Aug 15, 2005 4:34 pm

A kite should always stay leak free for the price you paid for it. What brand is it? If it is Cabrinah I would not be surprised. What I would do is go to the vendor you boaught it from and have them get you new bladders. If they are a good dealer they will warantee it for you.

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Post by Guest » Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:05 pm

Pipe I think the kite is used. New kites should not leak. Older ones are easy to fix. sflinux gave the easiest instructions on how to fix the bladder. I think everyone needs to do it once in a while. Best to do it before the wind starts to blow, or else you'll be in a hurry and miss something. We've done many bladder repairs on the beach in Alameda after the wind kicked in. Missed many sessions that way.

Dewey

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Post by Guest » Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:36 am

if it was naish i wouldnt be surprised either pipester... have the vendor give you a new kite from a different manufacturer.

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MehYam
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Post by MehYam » Wed Aug 17, 2005 11:28 am

Tip I've never seen anywhere: check the seal on the main valve. After taking my brand-new Cabrina Element out for the second time, I was bummed to find the LE stayed full for only about 30 minutes. It turns out the plastic contact on the main valve had a very minor uneveness in it, probably caused by debris, which allowed the air to escape slowly. I replaned it with some fine grain sand paper and steel wool - and added a rubber gasket to REALLY make it seal, now it's tight as a prom date from Utah.

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Post by Guest » Wed Aug 17, 2005 2:07 pm

Leaky valves: anyone tried this method?

http://www.ikiteboarding.com/article_detail.aspx?id=105

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